marshes – The Hermits' Rest

Ancient and Avian Wonders

Yesterday was our last day at Hilton Head, so we did those last few things you hadn’t done yet. One was eat at Hudson’s, my favorite restaurant. Even though we tried to get in at a less-busy time, we would have had a 40-minute wait for outdoors. Indoors wasn’t as fun, but I enjoyed some oysters anyway.

We found a Brown Pelican, and a Snowy Egret to take photos of, which made for a fun dessert!

After that we headed over to the Coastal Discovery Museum, which is a former hunting lodge that was donated to the island when the last owner passed away.

Too many gorgeous trees to get a good building photo.

They have turned the main house into a museum about the environment and history of this area. There was also an exhibit of art by local high school students, which was impressive. The exhibit I liked best was live horseshoe crabs swimming around and playing with the bubbles in their aerator. I’d never seen one alive.

The best part of the visit was the outdoor exhibits. There were boardwalks leading onto the tidal marsh, which was wonderful, with many birds and rushing water.

There was a butterfly exhibit with many monarchs flying around and lots of lovely plants to photograph them on. We were very glad Lee had brought the good camera, because some of the images are gorgeous.

There was also a carnivorous plant exhibit, and you know how much I love carnivorous plants! I also found a beautiful fly on one of the pitcher plants. I added some pictures we took of flowers, because they are so pretty.

Venus flytrap *Dionaea muscipula (*native to the Carolinas)

Lee went to sit and watch birds with the camera while I explored the rest of the place. He got some good shots.

Meanwhile, I looked at the dragonfly pond, which didn’t have any dragonflies, but did have an alligator that I almost didn’t see.

A big highlight of the museum grounds was the largest red cedar tree in South Carolina. Even before I read the sign that said it probably started out in 1595, I thought to myself that I’d never seen a cedar with such an impressively gnarled trunk. What a treasure!

I saved the best for last, though. The final boardwalk went through a motte of ancient, ancient live oaks, the kind I just want to hug and sit with (which I may have done). These were some of the most beautiful old friends I ever met.

Plus there were lots of fiddler crabs to enjoy. I like how they are all slightly different.

I’m so glad I finally went in there, persuaded by Lee. I think I had the idea that it was a kids’ place. I’ll be back to walk the whole trail, which happens to abut Jarvis Creek Park, another location I want to return to next time. Oh yes, there will be a next time.

Now, THAT’s a Beach

I found out something interesting yesterday. I wrote down all 99 different birds I saw last month at home in my bird journal, because that’s what you do when you have plenty of time to do things you actually like to do. After that, I decided to add the South Carolina birds I’ve seen so far on this trip to my list. I discovered I’ve seen 42 additional birds! I’m up to 111 species in this state and am grateful to the warblers of spring for contributing a good many of the additional birds. My new warbler for yesterday was the Worm-eating Warbler; it’s clear that there are so many warblers the namers are running out of good ones. Spring is a good time to bird on the east coast of the US!

Eastern Towhee that was singing away next to the condos.

The shore birds, when I can find them, have also added to my totals and life list. I got a new one and saw many interesting others when Lee and I finally went over to Mitchellville, a historical Gullah area, to the beach there. I’d read that Fish Haul beach has great birding, and yep, it does.

Tricolored Heron just enjoying the breeze.

It also has crabs and oysters for all those birds to eat, and neighboring marshes chock full of songbirds, including a Red-winged Blackbird that made a sound like an alarm bell ringing. That was odd.

Let me tell you, this is the kind of beach I want to visit, not ones covered in people and no interesting things to look at (sorry beach lovers, but when I have seen one long stretch of sand with some waves, I’ve seen them all). Fish Haul beach has rocks, tree stumps, seaweed, sandbars, tidal estuaries, and so much more. I had a blast.

The only negative aspect of this beach is that it’s very close to the airport. There are more flights to this island than I realized; no wonder they’re expanding the charmingly tiny airport. Still, plane and helicopter sounds do drown our your Whimbrels and Willets (the Whimbrel was my new beach bird).

The surrounding wooded area at the park was equally pleasant, and the boardwalk across the marsh was breathtaking. I could have spent many hours there if I was willing to keep paying $3 per hour to park. We used every minute of our hour, though. I have a new place to go every time I come here!

I’m sort of torn about Hilton Head. I realize it’s a haven for ultra-rich people and that most of the place is off-limits except to residents. That feels uber-elitist, and it doesn’t help that most of the Black folks live in mobile homes in “their” areas (though the Gullah areas are fascinating and it’s so cool that they stubbornly continue to live life on their terms, like growing their own food, weaving, etc.). It’s also cool that many mobile homes have been raised way up on cement blocks to avoid floods.

Can’t complain about the landscaping. Fortnight lily.

But wow, it’s so pretty here. All the zoning regulations and lighting rules mean that you feel like you’re in some woods, even on commercial roads. Only the two or three main drags look like roads in most places. Otherwise, you drive through tree canopies draped in Spanish moss. It looks so much like the older parts of Gainesville, Florida in the late 60s where I used to ride my bike and visit my grandmother’s house. I feel comfortable here until I start to think about my white privilege and former good income that lets me come to this bastion of golf and fanciness.

I feel a rant coming on. If you’re a Substack subscriber, you’ll get to read one shortly, after I do a Master Naturalist blog entry. Good thing I enjoy writing.

Cameras and Cacophony

Is anyone reading this? Judging from my stats, few of us are interested in pretty pictures. Well, that’s what you get, my friends, because I’m not wallowing in worry about 2025. I’m going to have as much fun as I can in case I can’t later.

Gonna grab the joy of nature as much as I can. Photo by Lee.

Today was a beautiful day. Of course, because I had to work. But I squeezed in my valuable restorative nature time. I had to, because I have a new camera to play with. Lee got it for my anniversary gift ( and a macro lens for Christmas, lol, the surprise is ruined). I’ve never been good with “real” cameras, but I’m gonna try. I can upload the photos to my phone and share them with Lee, so I’m encouraged.

Look at this tiny spider! And that’s not even with the macro lens.

I took a short walk this morning on the prayer trail to try the camera out, but I got all excited about the birds I was hearing that I was distracted. The owl even showed up on Merlin, and there was some kind of major Pileated Woodpecker discussion that lasted quite a while. But I did try out the camera.

After work there was still some light, thanks to starting at 7 am, so we zipped over to a favorite spot, Pinckney Island Nature Preserve. I didn’t make Lee wait hours for me like I did last time we were here. He had more fun this time, since he got to mess with the camera a lot while I basked in the glory of looking at wading birds with my new binoculars. Oh, the glory of ibises and egrets!

The Ibis pond is one of my favorite spots in this area, and it didn’t disappoint. It was loud, though. The gallinules were making a real racket, with a variety of calls, squeaks, and hoots. I barely heard any of the other water birds. But they were all fun to watch, since there were many family groups.

I did hear and see many songbirds as I walked around the pond. There was even a new one, a group of Palm Warblers. Thanks to the binoculars I was able to easily ID them. They are distinctly marked and have pretty olive bellies. Others were bluebirds, nuthatches, vireos, kinglets, and catbirds. Oh, and there were pretty plants.

I got so involved with birds that I nearly missed this guy. Reptile goal accomplished.

I always enjoy the herons and egrets, so they filled my heart.

Mostly Snowy Egrets. My Little Blue Heron photos didn’t work out.

But where were the ibises of Ibis Pond? They were roaming all over the salt marshes finding tasty snacks. The new camera’s photos of them at a distance weren’t as good as the camera photos. I would need a telephoto lens, which we used to have…but it’s hiding.

All in all, I was holding a lot of equipment, so I’m going to have to make arrangements for everything in the future. But it was fun.

And I had a great dinner at a new restaurant in town that is in a beautiful spot. Lee isn’t fond of food or portions in nice restaurants, but my halibut was perfect, and my fancy drink was tasty and not too sweet.

Lee showing his feelings about restaurants with cloth napkins. Also, my beverage. It was like a berry old fashioned.

I’m glad to have someone to listen to loud birds and try out new technology with. It’s helping me stay centered.

Though this photo slants, which makes me less centered.

Bonus. Here are some marsh and coastal forest photos to enjoy.

Now I’m Happy, Thanks to Pinkney Island

I finally got to go on a hike. It rained all morning, but at some point in the afternoon it cleared up. Hooray, hooray. Off we went to a big ole nature preserve called Pinkney Island National Wildlife Refuge. I hadn’t gotten to go there before, so I was pretty excited. There’s nothing I like better than a swampy and damp woodland and marsh combo. Ooh boy. Nature and all its smells and colors. This place looks like my dreams.

This beautiful place is a breeding spot for marsh birds, and we did get to enjoy seeing lots of birds at the Ibis pond, including, of all things, some white ibis! There were many fun birds swimming around there, including our friends the great heron and great white egret. There were also snowy egrets, gallinules, and coots, which were all fun to watch. And all the sounds were like being in a jungle movie. We loved it.

After that, Lee rested while I kept walking down a long path where I was completely alone with the woods. Suna Heaven. I saw so many beautiful trees, including some huge oaks, pines, and the biggest sweetgum tree I’ve ever seen. It was tree world, full of fungus, lichen, decay, and dank dampness. Ah.

There were also at least two armadillos that just totally ignored me as they busily rooted in the leaves, a lot of annoyed squirrels, and a flock of American robins. There was also a precious ruby-crowned kinglet we watched take a bath in a puddle, but I enjoyed it too much to get a picture. It was glorious! I was so happy.

But I did have to come back and find my husband, after walking nearly five miles. Even my fancy shoes were beginning to let my feet hurt, anyway.

I enjoy walking with Lee, because I’m free to stop and take lots of pictures while he takes his time. It works for us. I took a lot of pictures of the marsh, the shore, the trees ranging from tiny to immense, and all the life that feels safe on an uninhabited island. Well, unless there’s a hurricane or anything.

We topped the trip off with a meal at an overly fancy restaurant (Nunzio’s, for Rae who wants restaurant recommendations) where you have to have reservations even at 5 pm and most of the cars in the lot were Porsches and Mercedes. Still, the halibut was perfect, and the tomato salad had the ripest, tastiest tomatoes I’ve had in ages.

I just need one day like this per vacation, so I guess I can sit around the rest of the time I’m in South Carolina. Ha ha.

It’s Beautiful to Me

I started reading about the universal theory of beauty, but didn’t get far enough to say anything wise about it. I was comforted to know there is such a theory, though.

Marshes. That’s my idea of beauty. And birds.

Much of today I had my head buried in work. I do miss vacations, but Planview would have sent me to a mental health facility by now if I’d stayed.

I looked out the window periodically, though.

When I was finished, I rewarded myself with some time in the hot tub (alone!), some splashing in the pool, and a mango daiquiri.

Then I enjoyed a quick beach walk at high tide, which let me see actual sea life and intact shells, a rarity here at the tourist beach. And the waves were great colors. Sea foam green is a real thing.

Lee and I went to the Murrell’s Inlet boardwalk for dinner at a seafood place. I was very pleased with my blood orange old fashioned I drank and the “crab stack” I ate. Crab, mango, avocado, cilantro oil and siracha (however you spell it) are all among my favorites.

We topped the meal off with a walk along the boardwalk, which features a goat island, oyster shells, and birds. Not bad for an area with like 20 restaurants in it.

The best part of the boardwalk I didn’t get a picture of, because we were enjoying it so much. There were these twinkles and tiny splashes. At first I thought it was something swimming under the water. But no, it was eensy fishies jumping together! Little sparkly fishies! We were charmed.

So, that was beautiful.